top of page

Baía Assentiz

This secluded half-moon sandy beach, located south of the Cabo da Roca lighthouse, features a prominent rock prow on its northern side known as Pilar do Golfinho. Climbers Paulo Roxo, Miguel Grillo, Daniela Teixeira, and Paulo Alves developed several quality routes here. What initially appeared to be a piece of loose rock surprisingly turned out to be a very compact formation, offering high-quality climbing lines. On the cliff on the south side of Baía de Assentiz Fernando Pereira opened two lines on top rope solo on a day with an aerial festival at Sintra air base. 

Sector Arribas Direitas is located in  some steep cliffs south of Baia de Assentiz and its composed of two sub-sectors: Penedo do Boi and Cova do Tritão.

Penedo do Boi was developed by Fernando Pereira in 2013/2014. It’s a small wall situated mid-cliff, offering several easy and intermediate routes ideal for beginners. Bellow Fenda do Boi, a Z shapped crack would be a classic line elswhere. 

Cova do Tritão is a small sector features an overhanging wall with two bolted hard routes, an aid climb, and an easier trad line. Its lengthy approach makes it a rewarding destination for those seeking a challenging climb far from civilization.

Baía Assentiz

HOW TO GET THERE

Drive and park in the lot near the tourism office.

APPROACH

From the viewpoint (cross), walk south along the trail popular with tourists for photos. Continue descending, pass a waterline, then ascend the opposite side of the valley leading to the top of Pilar do Golfinho. From the summit, you can either abseil down or continue along the trail that descends to Baía de Assentiz beach. Take this option if you want to go to the two routes on the south side of the bay.  To Arribas Direitas (Penedo do Boi, Cova do Tritão) park at Espinhaço and head toward Baía de Assentiz. Avoid the path leading down to the beach. Instead, follow the coastal trail south along the top of the cliffs. Take a trail leading to the summit of Arriba Direitas, passing close to the Penedo do Boi sector. The views over Baía de Assentiz and the lighthouse are spectacular. Alternatively, from the parking lot, walk as if heading to the Espinhaço ruins. After crossing the river at Vale de Ordes, take a trail on the right that ascends north until it meets the path descending to Arriba Direitas, leading you to Penedo do Boi. Lower at a straight passage marked by an old fisherman’s rope, you’ll find two bolts with rings. From here, abseil down to the sea. If possible, leave a fixed 30-meter rope for the ascent, or scramble back up using the existing fisherman’s ropes.

COMMENTS

Take into consideration the tides. Bolts condition Pilar do Golfinho - Unknown. Probably 304 stainless steel. Penedo do Boi - Good, although some glue in 304 bolts can be found. Cova Tritão - Good (316L) Fenda do boi - Good (316L) Route height 20 - 100m aprox. Restrictions No restrictions. Other Comments Sourth side Baía Assentiz Route 2 (Festival aéreo) doesn't have fixed gear, final anchor on a large paralleliped  bloc. Cova do Tritão It’s best to try the routes at Cova do Tritão in the summer, when the sun sets farther north and shines on the cove in the late afternoon, creating ideal climbing conditions. Penedo do Boi This small sector is definitely worth a visit. Keep in mind that although the base of the cliff is nearly flat, a fall or roll downhill could result in a free fall into the ocean, which lies about 50 meters below. Fenda do Boi is situated above the sea, and its a bit hard to locate the lower off anchor, that are placed on a boulder and facing the ocean.
#
Sub Sector
Route Name
Grade
Quality
Style
Type
Rock Type
Opened by
Date
Bolt Conditions
Rebolted
1
Pilar do Golfinho
Cabo da roca social club
6b+/a1, IV+, 6a
2
Adventure
Multipitch
Granite
Paulo Roxo, Daniela Teixeira
4/1/05
Unknown
No
2
Pilar do Golfinho
O Pilar do golfinho
6a, 6b+ (A1) (6c), V+
2
Adventure
Multipitch
Granite
Paulo Roxo, Miguel Grillo, Daniela Teixeira
5/3/05
Good (some glue in 304)
No
1
Baia Assentiz Sul
Base aérea
6b
2
Adventure
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
?
Good
No
2
Baia Assentiz Sul
Festival aéreo
6a
2
Adventure
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
?
Good
No
1
Penedo do Boi
Cinc segons
6b
2
Traditional
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
7/5/05
Good (some glue in 304)
No
2
Penedo do Boi
Mac mec mic
V
2
Adventure
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
7/5/05
Good (some glue in 304)
No
3
Penedo do Boi
Bolacha
IV
2
Adventure
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
7/5/05
Good (some glue in 304)
No
4
Penedo do Boi
Garra de dragão
V
2
Traditional
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
7/5/05
Good (some glue in 304)
No
5
Penedo do Boi
Purista de agora, chapeiro de outrora
6a+
2
Traditional
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
7/5/05
Good (some glue in 304)
No
6
Penedo do Boi
Entradas "à boi"
6a+
2
Traditional
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
7/5/05
Good (some glue in 304)
No
Page 1 of 2

Legends

bottom of page