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Ponta Atlântica
A cluster of small hidden bays, coves, and cliffs hosts numerous climbing sectors with quality lines—mostly trad, but also some sport routes. Most of these routes were developed in the late 1990s and early 2000s by a dedicated group of enthusiasts. Special mention goes to Paulo Roxo, who opened more than half of the existing routes, alongside climbers such as João Dinis (who discovered and opened the first routes in this sector), Ricardo Quintas, Victor Viana, Vasco Candeias, Yolanda Safont, Manuel Valério, and Francisco Ataíde. In recent years, many more routes have been established by Nuno Pinheiro, Daniela Teixeira, Filipe Costa e Silva, and João Gaspar. Another special mention is due to Fernando Pereira, who developed several new routes and sectors, particularly around Biscaia and Figueira do Guincho further south.
HOW TO GET THERE
From Cascais or Sintra, head toward Cabo da Roca via EN 247. When you reach Estrada do Cabo da Roca, just before Azóia village, turn left onto road marked by a sign for "Café/Bar D. Quixote". Follow this road, then turn left again, passing an old abandoned football field on your right. Next, take the left road and follow the signs to "Casa da Pirolita." Park in the large parking area near Casa da Pirolita. From there, follow the foot trail that begins on the right side of the gate along the property wall. Continue down until you reach a headland with a good view, then proceed straight ahead. The trail will descend and lead you to the top of the bay.
APPROACH
From the parking area, you can easily walk to the Boulder Azul, Tsunami, and Blocos de Gulliver sectors. To reach Ponta Atlântica, you have two options: scramble down a ramp on the south side of the cove or rappel down the north side.
COMMENTS
Bolts condition
Good, routes rebolted by Paulo Roxo and Rui Rosado.
Route height
20 - 60 m aprox.
Restrictions
January 1st to July 14th - a maximum of 4 climbers is allowed in these sectors; July 15th to December 31th- a maximum of 10climbers is allowed in these sectors.
Other comments
There are a few more scattered lines located north and south of the main sectors described below.
A / BOULDER AZUL
A small overhanging boulder featuring several diagonal lines, mostly hand-jam cracks (wear tape or gloves recommended), along with some challenging boulder problems. It is located above the Tsunami sector.
B / TSUNAMI
A small sector situated right by the water with a solid base. It offers great lines to practice gear placements, plus some more demanding climbs such as Tsunami — a spectacular roof climbing crack.
C / PLACA SUL
A huge dark slab featuring overhangs and dihedrals on its left side and slabs on the right. It is ideal for introducing new climbers to traditional climbing and is one of the most visited crags at Cabo da Roca.
D / PROA
This 25 m wall boasts four fantastic routes characterized by big jugs on slightly overhanging terrain. Holds tend to be dirty with loose granite grains, so caution is advised.
E / PAREDE DAS TORMENTAS
A large rock face offering routes up to three pitches. Trono do Diabo (Devil’s Throne) is the most popular traverse, but the standout line is Directa Yosemítica. Its second pitch features an incredible overhanging finger crack, followed by a final pitch on a hard vertical face with tiny crimps. The route Variante Livre provides an alternative line that bypasses the large central overhang — the last pitch begins on a demanding dihedral with crimps on a blank face leading to a very challenging slab. These world-class lines would command long waits in legendary venues like Yosemite or Squamish.
You can rappel from the top to the base using the belay stations of Variante Livre (route 4): one single rappel with a pair of 60 m double ropes, or two rappels if using a 70 m single rope.
F / GARGANTA SECA
Above the creek on the top of the hill, about 10 m above the anchors of Directa Yosemítica, there are two bolts for rappelling down into the creek to access the base of the routes. To exit, the best option is to rappel from the top of pitch 1 of Garganta Molhada to the ground, then walk out via the ramp on the south side of the cove.
G / BLOCOS DE GULLIVER
A small boulder offering some easy but very enjoyable lines, with an amazing view looking south towards Guincho Beach.
# | Sub Sector | Route Name | Grade | Quality | Style | Type | Rock Type | Opened by | Date | Bolt Conditions | Rebolted |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
5 | Parede das Tormentas | Não te esqueças do cachecol | 6a+, 6b | 4 | Adventure | Multipitch | Granite | Paulo Roxo, Vasco Candeias | 1/16/00 | Good | Yes |
6 | Parede das Tormentas | Passos de passarito | III, V+ | 4 | Traditional | Multipitch | Granite | Paulo Roxo, Yolanda Safont | 1/23/99 | Good | Yes |
7 | Parede das Tormentas | Diabo à solta | 7a, 6a+ | 4 | Traditional | Multipitch | Granite | Francisco Ataíde, Mário Inocêncio | 7/1/12 | Good | Yes |
8 | Parede das Tormentas | Fissura esquecida | 6a | 3 | Traditional | Single | Granite | Paulo Roxo, Daniela Teixeira | 11/1/08 | Good | Yes |
9 | Parede das Tormentas | Micromachine | 6b+ | 3 | Traditional | Single | Granite | Francisco Ataíde | 2/24/09 | Good | Yes |
10 | Parede das Tormentas | Garganta Molhada | 6b+, 6c+ | 3 | Adventure | Multipitch | Granite | Paulo Roxo, Timóteo Mendes | 10/1/08 | Good | Yes |
11 | Parede das Tormentas | O Onze Pilas | 7a+ | 3 | Adventure | Multipitch | Granite | Rui Rosado | 6/16/24 | Good | Yes |
12 | Parede das Tormentas | Trópico de Cancer | A2 | 3 | Aid | Multipitch | Granite | Rui Rosado | 6/23/24 | Good | No |
13 | Parede das Tormentas | Trópico de Capricórnio | A2 | 3 | Aid | Multipitch | Granite | Rui Rosado | ? | Good | No |
14 | Parede das Tormentas | Projecto artificial | A3 | 3 | Aid | Multipitch | Granite | Rui Rosado | ? | Good | No |
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