Praia da Ursa

Bolts condition All routes have been rebolted, except for sport routes 1 and 2 in Placa Rosa, where 304 stainless steel glue-in bolts remain in poor condition. Route height 10-75 m aprox. Restrictions Accordingly to Carta Desporto Natureza PNSC : Rosas:  January 1st to May 31th - a maximum of 6 climbers is allowed in this sector; June 1 to September 30 th - no climbing allowed in this sector, October 1th to December 31 th- a maximum of 16 climbers is allowed in this sector.  Gaivota, Cascata e Negras:  January 1st to July 14th - a maximum of 6 climbers is allowed in these sectors; July 15th to December 31th- a maximum of 16 climbers is allowed in these sectors.  Other comments Climbing timing and conditions During summer, the sun sets farther north, so in this season you can spend the day relaxing on the beach and start climbing after 4 pm until sunset. Watch the tides carefully, as high tide can cut off access from the gorge to the beach. For sport climbing at Cascata da Ursa Keep in mind that the gorge is very narrow and faces west, so it only receives sunlight in the late evening during summer months. For the routes at Placa Rosa Be cautious of bystanders on the beach due to the risk of falling rock. It is best to avoid climbing here if the beach is crowded. Sub-sector descriptions A / Cascata A small creek ends in this narrow gorge with a 15-meter waterfall dropping onto the beach sand. The side wall of this channel hosts about 15 quality sport routes developed by Nuno Pinheiro, "Guga" Ramos, Francisco Ataíde, Filipe Costa e Silva, and Carlos Simes. Routes vary from vertical to slightly overhanging, requiring stamina and technique. These climbs are ideal for late afternoons in summer, the only time sunlight reaches inside the gorge. B / Placa Rosa Placa Rosa ("the pink slab") sits in the center of the beach and is perfect for introducing climbers to trad climbing. On its colorful pink granite, you’ll find some of the older classic routes from the 1980s, as well as newer lines from the 1990s. Above and to the right of Placa Rosa is Placa Negra ("the black slab"), a dark-colored wall offering technical face climbs on bulletproof granite. While the original first ascensionists are uncertain, Henrique Cabreira was the main enthusiast in the 1980s, with Sérgio Bruno adding several lines in the 1990s. Both slabs remained popular, featuring slabs, cracks, dihedrals, roofs, and platforms, with some routes having two pitches. The rock is mostly solid, though some sections have loose patches. All anchors have been recently rebolted. C / Gaivota This big white limestone boulder, named Gaivota ("seagull"), lies below the Ursa sea stack on the northern part of the beach. It contrasts with the orange granite boulders found on the southern side. D / Calhau dos Corvos Located on the south side of the beach, this area features a couple of granite boulders. The boulder closest to shore has a new lower-off station and is climbable only during low tide. The line follows a basalt strike on the east face, and anchors placed on the southern side allow for top-roping possibilities on the south face. E / Other lines At the far northern end of the beach, there are still a few additional lines to explore.