Anchor Safety Guidelines
at Cabo da Roca

Safe Anchors

Routes bolted or rebolted with titanium or 316L stainless steel bolts, hangers, and rings are considered safe.
COSIROC (hot zinc-plated glue-in bolts)
- Some bolts were replaced with hot zinc-plated glue-in bolts (COSIROC bolts).
- These are cheaper than titanium bolts.
- They develop a patina due to zinc oxidation, which may look suspicious but these bolts are considered safe.

Dangerous Anchors

Routes with 304 stainless steel glue-in bolts, 304 U-shaped glue-in bolts, 304 bolts, hangers, and rings or Petzl LONGLIFE type 1 bolts are not safe ( http://bit.ly/4m8kLXi ) and should not be trusted.

Mixed Anchors

Some routes have a mix of 316L bolts and 304 hangers or rings.
In recent years, failures of these hangers and rings have been reported.
Even if the bolts themselves are secure, failed hangers or rings can occur.
If you encounter such a combination, be cautious. Whenever possible:
- Back them up with additional gear.
- Replace them with 316L hangers and rings before climbing.

Pictures of safe and dangerous anchor points. (note: the dangerous examples below were rebolted).

Fixed Anchor Points

In recent years, unexpected failures of climbing anchors under relatively low loads—after being in place for several years—prompted a major effort to rebolt most routes at Cabo da Roca using more durable and suitable materials.

Crag Chemistry

UIAA

On the first routes established in the 1980s and 1990s, most anchor points were made of carbon steel. Exposed to the marine environment—salt, humidity, and spray—these anchors quickly rusted and appeared unsafe.

In the 2000s, some of these routes were rebolted using stainless steel. At the time, climbers didn’t realize that certain grades of stainless steel are unsuitable for coastal environments. Grade 304 stainless steel (also known as A2) was widely used, but after a few years, these bolts, hangers, and rings began to fail under extremely low loads. Local climbers mobilized to find a solution to this problem.

Local climbers got in touch with the UIAA, which helped them understand the problem. This led to a large-scale rebolting effort at Cabo da Roca—and at other coastal crags in Portugal. The main objective was to replace the old 304 stainless steel and carbon steel bolts with either titanium or 316L stainless steel.

Most sectors at Cabo da Roca have now been rebolted, although some routes are still awaiting intervention. Check the “Bolts Condition” column for each sector to see whether the routes are in good condition.

David Reeve, an Australian chemist and fellow climber working with the UIAA, took a particular interest in the failures of anchor points at Cabo da Roca. With the help of Luis Fernandes, he conducted a comprehensive study—remotely—that shed further light on this issue. The study can be consulted at www.cragchemistry.com.