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Praia da Aroeira
This crag is situated on a pebble beach between Cabo da Roca’s lighthouse and Praia da Ursa. On the north side of Praia da Aroeira, you’ll find a large arch at water level, topped by a massive leaning tower marked by a distinct grey basalt band.
A small group of routes climbs through the arch, but the best lines are found on the tower above, nicknamed O Espigão (The Spike). There are also some routes on the gorge below the spike, following excellent crack systems.
At the far southern end of the beach, you’ll find a boulder with a few additional lines.
HOW TO GET THERE
Coming from Cascais or Sintra, follow EN 247 toward Cabo da Roca. Park your car in the lot near the tourism office by the lighthouse. It’s best to leave your car here rather than by the roadside to avoid break-ins.
From the parking lot, walk back along the road about 500 meters and turn left (north) onto a dirt road. This path passes through a beautiful pinewood, follows the summit ridge, and then descends the obvious valley down to the beach.
There are two trails leading down to the beach, one at each end.
APPROACH
The routes are located on the northern part of the beach, climbing both the arch and the leaning pyramid behind it.
COMMENTS
Bolts condition
Good.
Route height
20-60 m aprox.
Restrictions
January 1st to July 14th - a maximum of 4 climbers is allowed in this sector; July 15th to December 31th- a maximum of 8 climbers is allowed in this sector.
Other comments
The first routes were established by Sérgio Bruno, a Brazilian climber who lived in Portugal in the early 1990s. Unfortunately, the names of most of his routes across Cabo da Roca were never recorded and are now lost.
In summer, it’s best to arrive early to climb in the shade, though on more humid days, climbing in the sun is preferable.
Climbing at Arco is only possible at low tide.
João Pedro Pena opened the boulder located further south, at the end of the beach.
# | Sub Sector | Route Name | Grade | Quality | Style | Type | Rock Type | Opened by | Date | Bolt Conditions | Rebolted |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Espigão - face Norte | Uma aventura comovente | 6b+/6c; 6c, 6c/A1 (7a+/b), 6a+ | 1 | Adventure | Multipitch | Granite | Paulo Roxo, Rui Rosado | 9/24/09 | Unknown | No |
1 | Espigão | Via de acesso | IV | 2 | Adventure | Multipitch | Granite | Sérgio Bruno | 1990-92 | Good | Yes (316L) JG RR |
1.a | Espigão | Variante | 6a | 2 | Adventure | Multipitch | Granite | Sérgio Bruno | 1990-92 | Good | Yes (316L) JG RR |
1.b | Espigão | Variante | 6a | 2 | Adventure | Multipitch | Granite | Sérgio Bruno | 1990-92 | Good | Yes (316L) JG RR |
1.c | Espigão | Variante | 6a | 2 | Adventure | Multipitch | Granite | Sérgio Bruno | 1990-92 | Good | Yes (316L) JG RR |
2 | Espigão | Anatomia do medo | V+, 6a+ | 3 | Adventure | Multipitch | Granite | Sérgio Bruno | 1990-92 | Good | Yes (316L) JG RR |
3 | Espigão | Border line | 6a+, 6b | 3 | Adventure | Multipitch | Granite | Sérgio Bruno | 1990-92 | Good | Yes (316L) JG RR |
4 | Espigão | ? | 6a | 3 | Adventure | Single | Granite | Sérgio Bruno | 1990-92 | Good | Yes (316L) JG RR |
5 | Espigão | Negros hábitos | 6a | 3 | Adventure | Single | Granite | Sérgio Bruno, Rui Rosado | 1990-92 | Good | Yes (316L) JG RR |
6 | Espigão | ? | V+ | 1 | Traditional | Single | Granite | Sérgio Bruno | 1990-92 | Good | Yes (316L) JG RR |
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