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Baia das Quatro Pedras

Lobo Mau and Promontório are two of the finest sectors at Cabo da Roca, offering high-quality trad routes on solid rock with excellent protection opportunities. Maminhas sector, being ocassionaly washed by waves, boasts impecable clean rock with fun cracks and also two roof cracks. Baia das caixas, by contrast sits high above the shore line almost on the top of the cliff and it composed of some moderate routes. 

Baia das Quatro Pedras

HOW TO GET THERE

From Cascais or Sintra, head towards Cabo da Roca. On Estrada do Cabo da Roca, just before reaching Azóia village, take a left dirt road marked with a sign for "Café/Bar D. Quixote." Turn left again, passing an old football field on your right, then take the left road and follow signs to "Casa da Pirolita." Park in the large lot near Casa da Pirolita. Continue on foot along a trail on the south side of the hill that crosses a dry water line until you reach two small valleys. The valley on the right features bright orange rock, while the valley on the left has a large, nearly vertical slab — this is the Lobo Mau sector. Follow the ridge between these two valleys until it ends at the sea, where you’ll find Promontório just below.

APPROACH

To descend into Lobo Mau bay, the best option is to abseil down the dark ramp on the south side using the anchors of Rampa de Acesso. Alternatively, you can rappel using the anchors at Capuchinho Vermelho. To reach these anchors, it’s advisable to sling one of the bushes above and make a short rappel, as the scramble involves loose and unstable terrain. The last and least recommended option is to descend along the waterline, which is slippery, loose, and filled with spiky bushes. For exiting at the end of the day, the easiest way is to climb the black ramp (graded IV) on the south side. Although there are a couple of bolts on this ramp, it remains a runout climb, so keeping your climbing shoes on is advised. To reach Promontório, you can walk down by the north side of the wall, going around until you reach its base. However, it’s preferable to use a 30 m rope to abseil from a top anchor. Since pulled ropes often fall into the ocean, it’s recommended to have a small fixed rope in place to avoid wetting your climbing ropes during the descent.

COMMENTS

Bolts condition Good. Route height 15 - 40 m aprox. Restrictions January 1st to July 14th - a maximum of 4 climbers is allowed in these sectors; July 15th to December 31th- a maximum of 10 climbers is allowed in these sectors.  Other Comments Promontório is shaded early in the morning, while Lobo Mau gets shade in the afternoon. For gear, you will need a double set of cams and a set of nuts. Half ropes are recommended, though a single rope may suffice. Sectors: A / LOBO MAU The main wall of the bay. An excellent granite slab facing southeast, featuring a roof at its base, a large dihedral, and numerous impressive cracks running the full height of the wall. B / ALTO LOBO MAU Located just above Lobo Mau near the waterfall, this small sector has three routes. C / CONTRA LOBO Situated on the opposite side of the bay, this face offers four more routes. Most climbs here are long, so using double ropes is advisable. D / PROMONTÓRIO A handful of medium-grade routes on clean, quality granite facing west above the sea. A must-visit for climbers who enjoy placing gear. E/ MAMINHAS Another excellent addition to this area, brought to live by the keen eye of Fernando Pereira. Conditions to climb on this sector can be hard to find, since its base sit at the intertidal line. So climbing can only ne done at the low tide, being better days with low tides (and of course calm sea). F/BAIA DAS CAIXAS The exploration of this bay was done by Fernando Pereira and João Gaspar. Two multipitch routes were opened but probably are not worth repeating , the same can't be said of small headwall on the top of the cliff. A handful of moderate lines might be interesting to be discovered for those looking for great lines in an astonishing setting.
#
Sub Sector
Route Name
Grade
Quality
Style
Type
Rock Type
Opened by
Date
Bolt Conditions
Rebolted
1
Sector Maminhas
?
?
2
Traditional
single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
?
Good
No
2
Sector Maminhas
?
?
2
Traditional
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
?
Good
No
4
Sector Maminhas
?
?
2
Traditional
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
?
Good
No
5
Sector Maminhas
?
?
2
Traditional
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
?
Good
No
6
Sector Maminhas
?
?
2
Traditional
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
?
Good
No
2
Sector Maminhas
?
?
2
Traditional
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
?
Good
No
3
Sector Maminhas
?
?
2
Traditional
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
?
Good
No
7
Sector Maminhas
?
?
2
Traditional
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
?
Good
No
8
Sector Maminhas
?
?
2
Traditional
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
?
Good
No
9
Sector Maminhas
?
?
2
Traditional
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
?
Good
No
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