Espinhaço

Bolts condition The most popular routes at Espinhaço main wall have been rebolted, either with tittanium glue in or 316L expansion bolts. Sector Perdido, Sérgio Bruno, Vale de Ordes, Força na Verga and Bloco Superior have also been rebolted. Route height 80-90m aprox. Restrictions Climbing on the Espinhaço main wall is not allowed from January 1st until June 14th due to seasonal restrictions. Other sectors January 1st to July 14th - a maximum of 4 climbers is allowed in these sectors; July 15th to December 31th- a maximum of 10 climbers is allowed in these sectors.  Other comments A / FORÇA NA VERGA A small sector located on the northwest side of the hill above the ruins of the old fort, featuring five short but challenging routes around 8 meters high. B / BLOCO SUPERIOR This sector includes excellent routes for learning to place cams and wires, such as Fendinha and Diedro. Palácio da Lua stands out as an exceptional overhanging crack, perhaps the best of its grade and style in Lisbon. C / ESPINHAÇO A large cliff boasting some of the best granite multi-pitch routes in Lisbon. The extensive topo of this wall can be overwhelming due to the many routes, making it hard for newcomers to pick a good introduction line. Classic routes include Direita, Normal, Miradouro, Transatlântica, Mancha Branca, Lunática, and Imaginária. These lines mainly follow natural crack systems and offer excellent climbing. All have been rebolted with titanium bolts—especially important for belays and sections difficult to protect with gear. D / SECTOR PERDIDO A hidden wall with very compact rock, located just around the corner from the main Espinhaço wall. Filled with magnificent routes primarily established by Paulo Roxo. Most routes have also been rebolted with titanium. E/ VALE DE ORDES Vale de Ordes is a sub-sector of the Espinhaço main wall, located in the valley that descends from the hills down to the main wall and eventually to the sea. Some climbers rappel from the anchors of Turboescalador after climbing the Espinhaço main wall to return to their packs hidden at the base. F/ SERGIO BRUNO This sector, situated in the small bay south of Espinhaço, was developed by Sérgio Bruno, a Brazilian climber who lived in Portugal for a few years in the late 1990s. Only climbable at low tide. All routes were rebolted by Luís Fernandes. The original route names were not recorded. G/ BAIETA Small sector south of Espinhaço, developed by Fernando Pereira and Nuno Pinheiro. This area features vertical routes above the sea. These climbs were established some time ago and, to date, have likely never been repeated. The routes start directly above the sea. It’s best to set a fixed line for abseiling and to build a hanging belay. Using a fixed line helps avoid dropping ropes into the ocean. Bear in mind there are no bolts; you will need to bring your own gear to set up belays both above (bellow a big boulder and with rope extensions) and below the routes (subject to tides and sea conditions). All routes were established during a single visit to this sector. The rock is said to be of great quality, regularly washed by the sea, but the cracks are uneven (offsets cams and stoppers work best here).