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Figueira do Guincho
This area, also developed by Fernando Pereira—sometimes with help from others like Nuno Pinheiro—features cliffs suited for climbers seeking hard challenges, including Varandas do Guincho. Other sectors such as Placa Negra, Guinchinho, and Pedreirinha are also notable. Pedreirinha offers some low-grade routes, perfect for those wanting to practice placing cams on limestone cracks.
HOW TO GET THERE
Coming from either Sintra or Cascais, drive toward Biscaia on EN 247. Take the exit at the sign for Biscaia - Figueira do Guincho onto the paved road. Follow Rua da Biscaia and then Rua da Figueira do Guincho, navigating the narrow roads until you reach Karma Surf Retreat, where you can park nearby.
APPROACH
From Karma Surf Retreat, follow the dirt road straight down to reach an old marble quarry near the Pedreirinha sector. From there, take the narrow trail that passes above Placa Negra, continues down to Guinchinho, and ends near Varandas do Guincho.
COMMENTS
Varandas do Guincho is a seldom visited area that truly deserves a visit for climbers seeking challenging, hard routes. Don’t forget to bring a brush to clean dust and sand from the cracks and holds for better climbing conditions.
Bolts condition
Varandas do Guincho features some lower-off anchors made with 304 glue-in U-shaped bolts. While generally reliable, it’s recommended to test these anchors before use. Other bolts in the area are high-quality 316L and are considered solid.
Karma Surf Retreat is a small sector with low grade routes, but it's located inside a private property. This small sector was developed for private use and its not open to the public. It's just listen here for reference.
Route height
10 - 20 m aprox.
Restrictions
No restrictions.
# | Sub Sector | Route Name | Grade | Quality | Style | Type | Rock Type | Opened by | Date | Bolt Conditions | Rebolted |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Karma Surf | ? | V | 1 | Sport | single | Granite | José Luis Carvalho | 2019? | Good (316L) | No |
2 | Karma Surf | ? | 6a | 1 | Sport | single | Granite | José Luis Carvalho | 2019? | Good (316L) | No |
3 | Karma Surf | ? | 6b | 1 | Sport | single | Granite | José Luis Carvalho | 2019? | Good (316L) | No |
4 | Karma Surf | ? | V | 1 | Sport | single | Granite | José Luis Carvalho | 2019? | Good (316L) | No |
5 | Karma Surf | ? | IV | 1 | Sport | single | Granite | José Luis Carvalho | 2019? | Good (316L) | No |
6 | Karma Surf | ? | IV | 1 | Sport | single | Granite | José Luis Carvalho | 2019? | Good (316L) | No |
7 | Karma Surf | ? | III | 1 | Sport | single | Granite | José Luis Carvalho | 2019? | Good (316L) | No |
8 | Karma Surf | ? | III | 1 | Sport | single | Granite | José Luis Carvalho | 2019? | Good (316L) | No |
9 | Karma Surf | ? | III | 1 | Sport | single | Granite | José Luis Carvalho | 2019? | Good (316L) | No |
1 | Esporão Ruinoso | Legoland | 6b+ | 2 | Traditional | Single | Granite | Fernando Pereira | 7/5/05 | No bolts | No |
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Legends
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