Noiva

The gigantic rocks of Ursa and Noiva create a stunning and dramatic backdrop to Ursa Beach.

Noiva, the larger of the two, towers over 100 meters high with a flat, square top lush with vegetation, contrasting sharply with Ursa’s jagged, pointed summit. From all four sides, Noiva looks nearly inaccessible. Yet, despite its exposed nature, the climb to its summit is relatively straightforward. A ridge halfway up the east face resembles the veil and tail of a bride’s dress—“noiva” means bride in Portuguese. Legend has it that a bride was turned to stone there, eternally waiting for her lover, a fisherman lost at sea before they could wed.

Noiva was first climbed on october 5th, 1971, by Alexandre L. Garcia, António Morais, Gaspar Dias, and Américo Abreu. Nearly half a century later, this climb remains a memorable and rewarding adventure.

The usual ascent is via the south side, route number 3—Via da Face Sul. The rock quality is somewhat loose on the first two pitches but improves near the top. While the traverse on the second pitch is easy, it is poorly protected.

Two 50-meter rappels down the east face bring you back safely to the ground—an excellent adventure overall.

Several other routes exist on Noiva’s other faces, though most have seen few repeats.