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Ultramar

The cliffs below Biscaia—Ultramar, Ponta do Assobio, and Figueira do Guincho—were among the last to be explored at Cabo da Roca.

Fernando Pereira has been the undisputed leader in these recent explorations. Alongside others such as João Gaspar, Nuno Pinheiro, Timóteo Mendes, Dulce Godinho, António Afonso, and António Vale, and sometimes working alone, Fernando brought many new routes and adventures to life for climbers to enjoy.

The Face Norte and Face Sul of the Ultramar sector offer a range of easy to intermediate climbs. On the Face Oeste, the route Gangbang Lucky Luke stands out as one of the hardest lines at Cabo da Roca.

Near the Ultramar parking area, you’ll find a boulder known as Bloco - Sector dos Amigos, featuring several problems established by João Pedro Pena and his friends.

Ultramar

HOW TO GET THERE

Coming from either Sintra or Cascais, drive toward Biscaia on the EN 247. Take the exit onto the paved road near the white sign marking the boundary between Sintra and Cascais municipalities onto Rua do Amor. Park at the end of the road near the entrance of a large villa.

APPROACH

Follow the dirt road in front of the villa, heading downhill and west. After about one kilometer, near the third sharp curve, you’ll start to see Baía do Terramoto on your left. Leave the dirt road there and take a faint trail straight down (west) to reach the Ultramar sector.

COMMENTS

Some routes don’t have fixed anchors for lowering or for starting the climb. Bring extra gear to build temporary anchors, as well as an extra rope for fixing and abseiling, to avoid getting your climbing ropes wet. Bolts condition Good. Route height  10 -90 m aprox. Restrictions No restrictions.
#
Sub Sector
Route Name
Grade
Quality
Style
Type
Rock Type
Opened by
Date
Bolt Conditions
Rebolted
1
Torreta
Via da Torreta
?
3
Traditional
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira, Nuno Pinheiro
?
Unknown
No
1
Ultramar - Sul
20 000 vias submarinas
III
3
Traditional
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
2011
Unknown
No
2
Ultramar - Sul
Mar amigo, o entalador ficou contigo
III
3
Traditional
Single
Granite
António Vale, Fernando Pereira
2011
Unknown
No
3
Ultramar - Sul
Ò mar salgado, quanto do teu sal são friends do pessoal?
III
3
Traditional
Single
Granite
António Vale, Fernando Pereira
2011
Unknown
No
4
Ultramar - Sul
Pedagogia desta baia
III
3
Traditional
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
2011
Unknown
No
5
Ultramar - Sul
Route squezzers, stay off!
IV
3
Traditional
Single
Granite
António Vale, Fernando Pereira
2011
Unknown
No
6
Ultramar - Sul
Smells like pay day
V
3
Traditional
Single
Granite
António Vale, Fernando Pereira
2011
Unknown
No
7
Ultramar - Sul
O baptista das vias
V+
3
Traditional
Single
Granite
João Gaspar, Fernando Pereira
2011
Unknown
No
8
Ultramar - Sul
From Nikki from Nilcke
6a+
3
Adventure
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
2011
Unknown
No
9
Ultramar
Gang bang Lucky Luke
8a+
5
Sport
Single
Granite
Fernando Pereira
2011
Unknown
No
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