Modern climbers have also added new lines at Cabo da Roca—not only in the traditional and adventurous styles, but also in a more modern vein. As a result, alongside the existing traditional, adventure, and aid routes, new sport climbing lines (and even entire sectors) have been established.

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Nevertheless, sport climbing remains the least represented style at Cabo da Roca. In fact, there are now more boulder problems than fully bolted routes, as the area naturally lends itself to traditional and adventure climbing. Still, sport climbing has its place here—as long as it stays true to its essence: the pursuit of difficulty in all its forms.

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Therefore, sport climbing routes at Cabo da Roca are mostly found at the higher end of the grading scale. Some have already been redpointed, while others still await a first ascent. These unfinished challenges may well stand as a legacy for future generations—always stronger than those before them—whom we invite to come and test their limits on these lines.

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Recommended sectors

Cascata at Praia da Ursa is a sport climbing sector well worth a visit during the summer months. All routes are five stars. 

Garganta Seca is a very small sector hard to get in and out of with only three routes. That being said, the reward will be enormous for those who dare the effort of going there to climb them. 

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Recommended routes

Scattered along secluded  bays and coves or high at Espinhaço main wall , some lines worthy of five stars in any guide book patiently await to be climbed.

Not to be missed:

• Gang Bang Lucky Luke (8a+) - a magnum opus drilled by the hands of Fernando Pereira. Not to be missed by the hard core crushers.

• Guantanamo (7c+) - Nothing gets more exposed than this line. Recently rebolted in titanium to give you just enough confidence when things get wild.

• És muita Linda (7c+) -  for those who like to boulder on rope and to crimp hard.

• Via da Pirolita (7b) - a technical line with a modern crux.

• Filhos da Trovoada (7b) - fight through the overhang to get to the dihedral. A pity its only 25 m long, it should be double.

• Logicamente Ilogica (7a+) - a  line for the irrational sport climber at Espinhaço main wall.

• Tweedledee( 7a) and Tweedledum (6c+) - both fun, short and intense.

• ROCA (6c) - the westernmost route in continental Europe. 

Routes for future generations

For those who wish to pay their respects to Cabo da Roca—and perhaps leave their mark on these cliffs—here is a short list of visionary projects awaiting repeats, first ascents, or the sheer strength of future climbers:

• E tu tens força na verga (proj., ~8c?) – On the right-hand side of Espinhaço’s massive overhang, Francisco Ataíde left behind this bold vision of power.

• Projecto Pinheiro (proj., ~8b?) – Bolted by Nuno Pinheiro at Esquina do Vento, this line still waits patiently for stronger climbers to unlock it.

• Projecto sem nome (proj., ~8b?) – A fierce link-up between P1 of Via da Direita and P3 of Miradouro, bolted by Francisco Ataíde at Espinhaço.

• Corredor 8 (proj., ~8a+?) – Just left of Guantánamo, on Espinhaço’s outrageous overhang, Leopoldo Faria left this futuristic testpiece.

• Variante entrada do Ataíde (proj., ~8?) – A short but brutal traverse (only four bolts!) to link into És muita linda (7c+). Another gift from Francisco Ataíde.

• Projecto Tritão (proj., ~8?) – Found at Arribas Direitas, and probably the most approachable on this list—but no less impressive.

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If this list isn’t enough, check the topos for Espinhaço’s main wall. On the left-hand side, you’ll find several unrelenting projects—lines like Já não há heróis, Cornudo, or Heróis da BD. These demand not only power but also a traditional touch, with cams required between bolts.

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The first pioneers at Cabo da Roca  only had hammers and pitons to open the primordial lines. 

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The climbers of the generations that soon followed these pioneers brought nuts, cams and eventually Spits and bolts, as these equipments were developed and entered into the Portuguese climbing scene.

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Note: the red lines on the topos below represent sport climbing routes, the green ones represent trad/adventure routes.